1923
"It was hard for me to believe that I was actually travelling to the Orient, fulfilling a wish that I had always cherished but not thought achievable..."
February 28, 1923 | Port of Genoa, Italy
Exactly a century ago, Hendrik Petrus Berlage (1856 - 1934), one of the Netherlands' most renowned architects, saw one of his biggest dreams come true: finally, it was time to travel to the Dutch East Indies!
In Genoa, he boarded a steamer, the SS Grotius, bound for Batavia, which he reached in just over three weeks. He then spent the next three months traversing Java, Bali and Sumatra by train, car and boat. It truly was a journey of a lifetime: while travelling, the architect sees himself falling in love with the archipelago. He diligently jotted down his impressions and observations in a journal, which he would eventually condense into 147 pages and publish in 1931.
Titled Mijn Indische Reis ('My journey to the Indies'), Berlage's book is a remarkable publication filled with stunning sketches and even a dozen poems (!). It's also a powerful exhibit of Berlage's pronounced ideas on culture and society. He addresses his views on historic and contemporary architecture and his culture-philosophical contemplations and foresight, as is expected from the master builder and mentor. However, Berlage also offers the reader an intimate glimpse into his personality. He shares surprisingly candid statements and feelings on Western superiority, embarrassing compatriots, colonialism, tourism, and identity. His observations get bolder throughout his trip: wonder makes way for admiration, and astonishment finally evolves into bewilderment.
Apart from a single rave review in a trade magazine, little is known about how Mijn Indische Reis was received, whether or not it found a wider resonance, and if people actually managed to read it between the lines.
Decades later, there was a renewed interest in Mijn Indische Reis. Dutch architect Joris Molenaar retraced the trip and reprinted Berlage's travel sketches with commentary in 1991. In 1996, Max van Rooy, a Dutch journalist, architecture expert and Berlage's grandson, joined forces with filmmaker Ike Bertels to make a documentary. Titled De Hollandse Tropenstijl ('Dutch Tropical Style'), their film was guided by Berlage's journal. More recently, in 2011, Dutch architect Herman van Bergeijk spotlighted Berlage's trip in a meticulously researched book, Berlage en Nederlands-Indië ('Berlage and the Dutch East Indies'). Yet, these initiatives were primarily architecture-focused; other aspects of his journey were not or hardly touched upon. But not for long...
2023
"Rarely has it been so hard for me to bid farewell to a country I shall never see again."
May 27, 1923 | Singaraja, Bali, Indonesia
It may have been hundred years since Berlage went on his adventure to the then-Dutch East Indies, but his observations in Mijn Indische Reis are again—or should we say, still—incredibly relevant.
We—an eight-strong bilateral team of professionals working in the cultural and creative sectors—strongly feel that reviving Berlage's 1923 trip is a great way to address today's hot topics in the Netherlands and Indonesia. These talking points include (de)colonisation, cultural identity and diversity, and sustainable building.
Tapping into a growing interest in (colonial) history and heritage in Indonesia and the Netherlands, Berlage's journey could also bring a fresh perspective to the special connection between our two countries and allow us to rediscover and enjoy this important piece of our shared (intangible) cultural heritage together.
So, high time to dust off Mijn Indische Reis and translate it, literally and figuratively: to Bahasa Indonesia and English and to the 21st century as Berlage di Nusantara.
Our 'Indische Reis 2.0' is not a summary nor a complete analysis of Berlage's trip: it is a carefully curated new edition of the old journal. We studied the diary entries in great detail and put together an abridged version where Berlage's most interesting quotes and thought-provoking passages take centre stage. We selected the most eye-catching and fitting out of the 64 (!) sketches and searched for photos, letters, postcards and other visuals of buildings, situations and places he writes about.
Yogyakarta-based illustrator Upit Dyoni further brought a travelling Berlage to life through gorgeous drawings. We also added historical context and commentary and dived into some compelling questions. Not to find all the answers but to continue Berlage's legacy. Our purpose is to continue spinning the threads of his thoughts where he left them.
Apart from publishing a new book, we also take Berlage's sketches and quotes as a starting point for a series of podcast interviews. We invite people from different walks of life and generations in Indonesia and the Netherlands to share their thoughts on Berlage's trip with us and you. We also ask them to contribute to our book by sharing their perspectives with us through their medium of choice.
And that's not all! A series of exhibitions and activities to further bring Berlage's adventure to life are also in the making.
Last but definitely not least, we invite you (yes, you!) to join Berlage's—and our!—journey by following us on social media, subscribing to our email updates and sharing your feedback with us.
And so, a century later, Berlage's journey continues. All aboard!
Buy the Book
“Brilliant book. And moving. And very 21st-century. I’ve never seen anything like this before.”
— Riemer Knoop, Director Gordion Cultureel Advies
"You read how he struggles with his moral values, and that means a lot to me."
— Amara van der Elst, spoken word artist
"I think the trip to the Indies was an unexpected surprise, like a warm shower. He found here what he had been searching for."
— Huib Akihary, architecture historian
"It’s interesting that 100 years later, the Indonesians think, ‘We have a Berlage!’; like you’ve found a van Gogh."
— Rizky Kalebos, urban influencer
Berlage’s Journey to the Indies is a creative reinterpretation of famous Dutch architect Hendrik Petrus Berlage’s hundred-year-old travel diary. This richly illustrated book, written in three languages – Dutch, Indonesian, and English – explores the Dutch-Indonesian colonial past with a fresh, critical look at the present. Berlage’s Journey to the Indies (Indonesian title: Berlage di Nusantara, Dutch title: Berlages Indische Reis) is written by Angeline Basuki, Loes van Iperen, Ester van Steekelenburg, and Petra Timmer. It is published by LM Publishers in Edam, the Netherlands.
The 300-page book, which includes Berlage’s original sketches, historical photographs, old prints, and new hand-drawn illustrations, makes an eye-catching coffee table book or a thoughtful gift.
Design: Annemarijn de Boer † and Ad van Helmond | Illustrations: Upit Dyoni
Trilingual edition: English, Indonesian, and Dutch
300 pages, 170 x 240 mm, Full-colour paperback with fold-out cover
ISBN: 9789460229626
Purchase Berlage’s Journey to the Indies at LM Publishers (the Netherlands/worldwide) or PeriPlus bookstores (Indonesia), online and at physical stores in Jakarta, Bandung, Bali, Yogya, Surabaya, and Balikpapan. Click here for the complete list of stockists.
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Why this book?
Exactly a century ago, a great wish came true for Hendrik Petrus Berlage (1856 - 1934): he could finally travel to the Dutch East Indies! For three months, he travelled across Java, Bali, and Sumatra. It became the journey of a lifetime. Throughout the trip, Berlage diligently penned his impressions, observations, and even poems in a diary, which he eventually published in 1931 as Mijn Indische Reis (‘My Journey to the Indies’). The observations he makes in his travel diary are, a hundred years later, still very relevant – or perhaps even more so. Unfortunately, the book has faded into obscurity and was never translated into Indonesian.
Who should read this book?
Berlage’s Journey to the Indies brings a travelling Berlage in 1923 to life in the here and now. What Berlage observes is about much more than architecture: he writes passionately about local people, art, and culture and is surprisingly critical of colonial society. As he explores the country from various perspectives – the traveller, the architect, the thinker, and the critic – we meet the person behind the famous master builder. The book reconstructs and contextualises his journey with archival material, photos, old prints, and new illustrations. The book is not only worthwhile for architects but also for travellers and anyone interested in the colonial history of the Netherlands.
The journey continues!
The authors of Berlage’s Journey to the Indies have presented the most surprising and controversial excerpts from Berlage’s original diary to 21 inspiring creators and thinkers – from artists to architects and even an ambassador – in Indonesia and the Netherlands and invited them to reflect on Berlage’s musings. Through their insights and stories, Berlage’s quotes become starting points to discuss contemporary topics such as cultural identity, diversity, sustainability, and decolonisation. And so, his journey continues a century later.
Sharing shared heritage...
The Berlage di Nusantara-team gave 150 copies to key figures within cultural institutions, as well as universities and libraries, to truly share this piece of shared heritage.
The Indonesian translation will provide students in Indonesia with a unique opportunity to learn about the old master, his Indonesian architectural legacy and his personal testimony to the artistic tradition and culture in the former Dutch colony.
...and saving one of Berlage’s buildings in Indonesia
Finally, there was another urgent reason to revive Berlage’s travel diary. Few people know that there are two buildings in Indonesia designed by Berlage: Gedung Algemeene/Gedung Singa in Surabaya, completed in 1901, and Gedung Nederlanden van 1845 in Jakarta from 1913. Gedung Singa – also known as ‘the house with the lions’ – is in poor condition. Years of vacancy and neglect have taken their toll, and Berlage’s legacy is slowly but surely crumbling. The authors aim to spark local discussions about renovating and reusing the building through their book.
#berlagedinusantara
JOIN THE JOURNEY!
Podcast
We invited a group of remarkable individuals, from artists to ambassadors, to revisit Berlage's adventure in the then-Dutch East Indies. The result? Two (100% free!) podcast series, one recorded in Indonesia and the other in The Netherlands, in which we touch on a wide range of Berlage-adjacent topics. Expect fresh insights, personal stories, philosophical ponderings, and even our very own dedicated song.
Listen, watch, and join the conversation: we would love to hear your thoughts!
#BerlageWanderwall
Berlage’s Indies journey is about to take a new turn beyond our book. We brought together a group of talented storytellers in Amsterdam who all share two things: Indonesian roots and a passion for creativity.
Over the following months, they will craft a unique narrative through a street art route where visual art, spoken word, and music come together. Their journey begins with architect Hendrik Petrus Berlage’s 100-year-old travel journal, Mijn Indische Reis (‘My Journey to the Indies’) and does not have an ending yet…
Together, these artists will reimagine the other side of a colonial narrative in an experiment to create a gesamtkunstwerk (‘total work of art’) in Berlage’s spirit; when designing Amsterdam’s iconic stock exchange, he, too, brought different art disciplines together to form an equal and unified whole.
We’re heading to Amsterdam-Zuid, a borough shaped by Berlage’s very own urban planning from the early 1900s. There, these artist will use five simple electricity houses—scattered throughout Plan Zuid—as their canvas; unassuming spots they'll transform into something special. No longer mere stacks of bricks, but places that come to life in this unique neighbourhood where Berlage’s spirit lives on, in grand gestures and small details alike.
Meet Nicky Nahafahik (street artist), Esmay Usmany (singer/songwriter), Amara van der Elst (spoken word artist) Dido Drachman (illustrator), Rizky Kalebos (urban influencer), and get to know their story.
Curious to see what they come up with? Follow us on social media or subscribe to our newsletter for more updates on this new Berlage di Nusantara-mural project and these talented creatives!
This project is realised with the generous support of the V Fonds.
Events
Berlage di Nusantara on the road:
Exhibitions, talks, lectures, and other (upcoming) events in Indonesia and the Netherlands.
BOOK LAUNCH:INDONESIA
BOOK LAUNCH :THE NETHERLANDS
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BANDUNG HERITAGE SOCIETY x BERLAGE DI NUSANTARA
May 31, 2024
Angeline Basuki, the co-editor and translator of our upcoming book, shared about our journey (and Berlage's!) at the iconic De Majestic building, a beautiful 1925 Art Deco landmark designed by C.P. Wolff Schoemaker.
@architrace.ui x @berlagedinusantara presents:
WANUA 2023 Special Talk Series - BERLAGE DI NUSANTARA
January 9, 2023
Dr Petra Timmer (Editor and Architecture & Historical research at Berlage di Nusantara) was invited to lecture at the students at the Department of Architecture, Faculty of Engineering (Departemen Arsitektur FTUI) at Universitas Indonesia. In this public talk, she spoke about the cities and sites Berlage visited in 1923, the people he met, his lectures, sketches, and other experiences. What was the goal of his journey, and why is its relevant for today's architects?
EKSPOSISI BATAVIA
SenyuMuseum x Museum Kebaharian Jakarta x Berlage di Nusantara
17 - 18 June 2023
We were invited to present a mini-exhibition about Berlage's 1923 adventure at 'Exposisi Batavia' held in Jakarta's Maritime Museum (Museum Kebaharian Jakarta), a cultural event co-organised by SenyuMuseum.
Angeline Basuki (Editor & Project Manager at Berlage di Nusantara) hosted a talk on our project.
Team
Meet the team behind Berlage di Nusantara:
Petra Timmer
Editor-in-chief, Architectural & Historical Research
Upit Dyoni
Illustrator
Raymon Hilkman
Director & Presenter podcast Berlage di Nusantara
(The Netherlands)
Darren Aqilaah
Videography & Editor podcast
Berlage di Nusantara
(Indonesia)
Ester van Steekelenburg
Initiator, Creative Concept & Project Management
Helia Vons
Support Visual Content
Marco Vet
Videography podcast
Berlage di Nusantara
(The Netherlands)
Rahma Azzahra
Voice-over podcast
Berlage di Nusantara
(Indonesia)
Loes van Iperen
Editor, Social Media (Content Creation & Design), Website
Annemarijn de Boer †
Graphic Design
Angeline Basuki
Editor, Project Management Indonesia, Translation & Social Media Moderation
Lea Pamungkas & Taalcentrum VU
Translation Berlage Quotes
Yudha Irawan
Presenter podcast Berlage di Nusantara
(Indonesia)
Fikri Ramadhani
Videography podcast
Berlage di Nusantara
(Indonesia)
Press
 Met het Oog op Morgen |  De Volkskrant |  Historiek |
|---|---|---|
 De Architect |  Architectenweb |  Architectuur.nl |
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Mission & Vision
#BerlagediNusantara is the literal and figurative translation of Hendrik Petrus Berlage’s 1923 travel diary. We build on the statements the famous Dutch architect penned in his hundred-year-old journal to bring a piece of intangible heritage to the present time.
Instead of pondering what ‘the East should and could learn from the West’, Berlage turns it around: he searches for what we in the West could learn from the East. The famous architect wanted to share a different perspective about ‘The East’, which we take as a starting point for a conversation about colonial history and cultural identity in The Netherlands and Indonesia. Through activities such as a podcast series, travelling exhibitions and an interactive mural, we want to make Berlage’s original travel diary accessible to an international audience, find the common values in traditional concepts of culture, architecture and heritage and add new perspectives that are relevant for today’s generation and can perhaps inspire a future generation.
Contact
Do you have a question about Berlage di Nusantara? Would you like to collaborate or be involved in some manner? Have ideas you want to send our way? Anything else you'd like to tell us?
Please feel free to reach out; we love hearing from you!
The historical photos, sketches and other visuals featured in Berlage di Nusantara, on social media and our website have been sourced from the Berlage archives at Het Nieuwe Instituut, Royal Tropical Institute and private and public collections in The Netherlands and Indonesia. All efforts have been made to trace the owners of the images used. Yet, there may be cases where we have not been successful. Anyone who believes they may have a copyright claim should contact us.
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